Food

Chinatown’s culinary democracy

by Liz on October 11, 2011

in Food

    Fresh rambutans on Canal Street

    UPDATE: The Itinerary I mention below is now available on UnAnchor.com! Check it our here.

    Recently in New York there’s been an ongoing movement to nosh on ethnic foods, edible delights that shouldn’t just taste good but also be as authentic as possible. Almost every other week we hear of an insider’s tour of Jackson Heights, or a Flushing Food Tour that will leave all stomachs happily full and sated. The best part of eating ethnic, and particularly Chinese, is that it is very kind on the wallet, which given the economic mood of today, is probably the biggest draw of a dumpling that’s Made In Flushing or a red bean bun at a Chinatown bakery.

    Financial considerations aside, I would gladly eat at some of my favorite Chinatown restaurants any day. It’s just too good to pass up, which is why I’m also working on an itinerary that will help visitors eat like a local and really enjoy the Asian quarters of New York.

    The foods eaten in the Chinatowns here represent something of a culinary democracy. Every color, shape and size is completely represented, and no ingredient that’s natural or good is spared.

    So I’ve been pounding the pavement looking for wonderful food and gathering information. What I’ve learned along the way about Asian food, and Chinese cuisine in particular, has been a revelation. The foods eaten in the Chinatowns here represent something of a culinary democracy. Every color, shape and size is completely represented, and no ingredient that’s natural or good is spared. And while it’s something of a truism that actual, political democracy is a faraway reality in China and will remain a bone of contention, I can’t help but turn my attention to a different kind of democracy, one that’s been around in Asian culture for thousands of years, and revolves around food, life’s most important necessity. The best part of Chinese culinary democracy is not just all-out representation of textures and colors, either. It is for me, as it is for others, food that’s economically accessible to almost anyone with a dollar to spare.

    And that to me sounds like true democracy: simple, beautiful, delicious and available to all.

    Bánh cuốn at Thái Son (89 Baxter Street)

    Dumplings with chili oil at White Bear (135-02 Roosevelt Ave, Flushing)

    Fried chicken drumsticks at LIRR Food Stall, Flushing

    Almond cookie ice cream at Chinatown Ice Cream Factory (65 Bayard St)

    Ten Ren Tea (135-18 Roosevelt Ave, Flushing)

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When I first started this blog, I must have been tremendously naive, or at least under the impression that Asian-y events in New York were manageable, at least from a writer’s perspective. Of course, now I know better.

New York is positively Asiafied. It’s actually a challenge to curate great places and people, and reduce a month’s worth of events to one page. It’s also bewildering that some really terrific stuff gets totally ignored by mainstream media outlets! As usual, I’ve taken an avalanche of information for October and reduced it to reasonable a number, all in the vague hope it’s of some service to my readers.

Enjoy!

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Chuseok time is japchae time

by Liz on September 10, 2011

in Food

This is japchae. You eat it.


I’ve been Korean for as long as I can remember, and for as long as I can remember I have never been a big fan of japchae, a lightly stir-fried dish of glass noodles embellished with various vegetables and proteins. Which, to me, is ironic, because I love stir-fries and noodles, and japchae has both these bases covered.

Japchae has counterparts in other Asian cuisines, but I’ve always been secretly dismayed that it has neither the sweet and sour fragrance of Pad Thai, or the greasy but good sated feel of American Chinese chow mein. The appeal isn’t immediate, which probably explains why it’s taken me this long to finally come around. Yes, I now love japchae, and here’s why.

I love japchae because it’s a stir-fried dish that keeps grease to a minimum. It’s also one of few, perhaps the one and only stir-fried noodle recipe that uses mushrooms to incorporate an aromatic, earthy flavor to what’s already a color and taste-rich dish.

Japchae is also a taste of home. My mother always made it on special occasions, and though I’ve never understood why, we always ate it with rice, a seemingly incompatible accompaniment to the noodleliness of japchae. But now, when I eat japchae as a standalone item, my palate knows something’s not quite right, unless, of course, I take a bite of rice.

So this Chuseok, a celebration of harvest and gathering in South Korea, why not make a plate of japchae? I’m providing a variation of a recipe I used this weekend from one of my favorite Korean food blogs, a translation if you will, so you can try this at home.

A quick glance and the recipe is a bit intimidating, because there’s many small steps to master. But, take heart. If I can make this, so can you.

Stir-frying the pork. Yum.

Chuseok Japchae (adapted from here, serves 5 to 6)
9 oz. sweet potato noodles (called ‘dangmyeon’ in Korean)
1/2 bunch of spinach
7 oz. of oyster mushrooms (here I just used an assortment of mushrooms)
1 large onion
1 carrot
3 eggs, yolks separated from whites
5 oz. pork cutlet

Seasoning for pork
1/2 ts of salt
1 tb of Chinese cooking wine
Pepper to taste

Seasoning for noodles
4 tb of Jin Ganjang, thick Korean soy sauce (available in Korean grocery stores)
1 tb sugar

Seasoning for vegetables
1 tb of Jin Ganjang
2 tb of sesame oil
Crushed sesame seeds, to your liking (I crushed mine with a mortar and pestle)

(FYI: instructions to stir-fry below usually requires adding a tablespoon of canola oil or equivalent to the pan prior to pouring ingredients to cook)

1. Wash the mushrooms, and boil quickly in hot water, no more than 10 seconds. Drain and squeeze water out completely, then lightly sprinkle with salt.
2. Wash the spinach, also boil in hot water for approximately 10 seconds. Again, drain water and squeeze out excess moisture. Sprinkle lightly with salt.
3. Peel and slice the onion into semi-circles and stir-fry in a non-stick pan on medium-high heat until partially cooked.
4. Peel and slice the carrot into thin strips. Stir-fry until partially but not completely cooked.
5. Pour the egg white into an omelet pan, flip, and cook on both sides. Repeat for the yolk. Slice both omelets into thin strips. Set aside.
6. Slice the pork cutlet into thin strips, and marinate thoroughly with the seasoning for pork. In a non-stick pan, stir fry until fully cooked.
7. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the dangmyeon (noodles). Cook for no more than 10 minutes, drain, place quickly in a bowl of cold water to chill. Cut into bite sized pieces (best done with scissors).
8. Now for the home stretch: add 1 to 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil to a large, non-stick pan or wok, set at medium-high heat. Pour the noodles and add the seasoning for noodles. (Note: do taste frequently as you cook, and feel free to add additional doses of the noodle seasoning sauce as you see fit.)
9. You’ll notice the noodles change color as you add the sauce. Make sure the sauce is absorbed evenly.
10. Next, add the pork and vegetables, stirring all ingredients thoroughly.
11. Lastly, add the seasoning for vegetables. Stir once more and mix thoroughly.

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Well New York, this September marks the 10th anniversary of 9/11. A month of rememberance as we officially settle into fall, a season that’s also our fair city’s best, hurricanes, earthquakes, and financial fallouts not withstanding.

But rain or shine, there will always be things to do, foods to try, and art to remember. Always.

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When bananas go ripe…

by Liz on August 10, 2011

in Food

Banana bread with cardamom, nutmeg, and coconut milk.


When bananas go ripe, you make banana bread.

This recipe was inspired by my travels to Thailand, and the flavors of the banana desserts I tried in Bangkok and Phuket.

Of course, banana bread tastes nothing like Thai fried bananas, or bananas in coconut milk. But once you fall for the fragrant fusion of both, it’s hard not to crave the sweetly perfumed notes of Southeast Asian cooking. With slight hopes that I would be transported to the coastlines of Phuket at first bite, I tweaked around with a traditional banana bread recipe spotted on Saveur, by substituting coconut milk for buttermilk, and adding fragrant teaspoons of cardamom and nutmeg. Cardamom, by the way, smells like absolute heaven, a fact I’m quick to forget, but just as quick to remember when I use it to cook.

I’ve also been experimenting with Thai and other spices in my baking for almost a year because I thought it was a fun way to play around, and experiment with new flavors on a foundation of American recipes. The great thing about banana bread is you can play around with the top note ingredients. I used three ripe bananas as directed, but you can always use more. Sugar? You can adjust that too. The recipe below calls for 1 cup of sugar, but I just used half a cup. Thanks to the presence of ripe bananas, the bread was not lacking in sweetness.

Then there’s the coconut milk. It tastes great in baking, but I also know that buttermilk gives the bread a wonderful tanginess and fluffiness. The choice is yours.

ASEAN Banana Bread (adapted from Mom’s Banana Bread Recipe, Ben Mims, Saveur Magazine) Serves 6 – 8

Butter, for greasing pan
1 cup flour, plus more for pan
3⁄4 tsp. baking soda
1⁄4 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. cardamom (more if you like)
1/2 tsp. grated or powdered nutmeg
1 cup sugar (I used just ½ cup and it was fine.)
1⁄2 cup canola oil
1⁄3 cup buttermilk (I substituted with 1/3 cup coconut milk, but I’ll leave that up to you.)
1 tsp. vanilla
1 egg plus 1 egg yolk
2⁄3 cup chopped pecans (All nuts welcome! Dried fruits too.)
3 very ripe bananas, mashed

1. Heat oven to 350°. Grease a 9″ x 5″ x 2 3⁄4″ loaf pan with butter and dust with flour; set pan aside.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, cardamom, nutmeg,and salt; set aside.

3. Whisk together sugar, oil, buttermilk (or coconut milk), vanilla, egg, and egg yolk in a medium bowl until smooth. Pour wet ingredients over dry ingredients and whisk until just combined. Add pecans (or various nuts, fruits) and mashed bananas and whisk gently to combine. Pour batter into prepared pan and bake until golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the middle of the loaf comes out clean, 60–65 minutes. Let cool for 30 minutes before slicing and serving.


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